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I decided to take a break from trying to figure out how to get the 4 capacitors in the copper box out I painted the outside of the case with Rustoleum Satin Granite. I first cleaned the case with water and dishwashing liquid, and followed up with denatured alcohol. I wanted to preserve the wrinkle finish, so I did not scrub too hard. I decided to leave the bottom as is, one of the photos below shows the bottom and one side as a comparison of the old and new paint. It is pretty close, I think it looks a bit closer in person than in the photo. I buffed the handles and their screws also. I considered spraying them with cleat lacquer, but decided against it and will put a bit of wax on the screw heads at least.
Russ Attachments: back.jpeg 111.01 KiB Viewed 2202 times side.jpeg 113.64 KiB Viewed 2202 times sideandbottom.jpeg 126.14 KiB Viewed 2202 times A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are. I decided to take a break from trying to figure out how to get the 4 capacitors in the copper box out I used a pair of needle nose wire cutters to clip the cap leads close to the cap body. I then wound the leads on the new caps around a jewelers screw driver to make a tight coil. I slipped this over snipped cap lead and I had just enough room to solder it in. I think it's impossible to remove the copper case. Good luck, Keith Keith, thanks for the tip!
Jan 02, 2019 This Forum is for discussing all things Rider related and any other CFL related topics. This is a 1982 Evans FET500 1X12 amplifier. These were designed to be superior to steel guitar amps that were on the market. These amps have also become popular for jazz guitar because of the great clean headroom. Post subject: Europe July 2019. Hang gliders in the Chamonix valley, Annecy, Zell am See, Ager, and the UK. Cosmic Rough Rider wrote.
I think that sounds like a plan. I had been contemplating trying to take the screws off the side of the copper box, bur the lower row would be very difficult to get out, let alone put back in. Russ A place for everything, everything in it's place.
I just don't remember where all those places are. Thanks to Keith and Lou, I have replaced the three caps in the copper cage. I purchased a longer pair of cutters, shown in the photo next my regular pair. Once I removed the existing cap, I used the method of putting a coil on the capacitor lead. There was not enough room to re-stuff, and attach, so these caps went in unstuffed. Once the cover is on the copper cage, at least they will not be seen. All other caps that I have replaced have been re-stuffed.
Regarding the re-stuffing, the caps in this Chanalyst lend themselves to an easy re-stuff. They used paper caps inside paper tubes that have cardboard ends on them. It is a simple matter of opening one end, sliding out the old, and putting in the new. You will see two caps in the photos that have been stuffed, and are waiting to be soldered in place.
Russ Attachments: cutters.JPG 117.87 KiB Viewed 2063 times copper cage.jpeg 168.75 KiB Viewed 2063 times cap in.jpeg 173.85 KiB Viewed 2063 times A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are. Making some progress, capacitor replacement is now complete, the front panel has been cleaned. Most of the resistors have tested high, some still within tolerance, but most are out.
At this point, I want to test it before I change any resistors. Since I do not yet know how to reproduce authentic looking resistors, I want to hold off before I swap in new ones. So far the only channel that I have tested is 'Wattage', which is working well.
I still need to fabricate test leads, but there are some discrepancies between the schematic, and what is in the chassis, so I am holding off until I do more research. Other things complete, cleaning of knobs and painting their white lines, and painting the washers that Identify the jacks. Russ Attachments: after recap.jpeg 159.48 KiB Viewed 2006 times front after.jpeg 135.72 KiB Viewed 2006 times A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are.
Almost finished, I put the chassis in the case to see how it would look. Unfortunately with my shop light on it is difficult to see the eye tubes. A little experimenting with tipping the case helped a bit, but still not great, so I will do further experimentation with some type of a visor. In the photos below, one was taken with normal shop light, and the other was with shop light off and lit only by a flashlight. All probes have been constructed, the inside diameter of the probes dictated what size wire I used, so for the shielded cables I used RG 174, the other two cables were done with standard 18 awg test lead cable. (I think I was supposed to use shielded cable on all four probes) If I were to do it over, I would have tried to find some probes with a larger inside diameter. I was able to do a quick test of functionality on all 5 channels, and was able to get responses on 4, just not on the oscillator channel.
I need to read the manual to see how to use all channels properly, I have no reason to suspect that the oscillator channel will not work. I may also need to do an alignment once I get further into testing. The RF-IF channel looks pretty good already, with my signal generator set to 455, the Chanalyst indicated pretty darn close to 455. One last project is to make a panel that will contain an AC outlet, and two 1/4 inch jacks so that I can connect to wires from the connections on the rear of the cabinet so that I do not have to pull the Chanalyst out just to reach them. Russ Attachments: power on normal light.jpeg 129.88 KiB Viewed 1941 times power on flashlight.jpeg 124.94 KiB Viewed 1941 times off with test leads.jpeg 148.75 KiB Viewed 1941 times A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are.
Hi Russ, I have been following your Chanalyst restoration thread with great interest. Congratulations on your great work thus far! To other ARF members: I own a Chanalyst with its original test leads, and I earlier corresponded with Russ on their construction.
Since other Chanalyst owners may be following this thread, here is a copy of the PM which I sent to Russ on this subject: Here is a description of my Chanalyst test leads: First of all, they each measure 42 inches in length, point-to-point. All four test leads use shielded cable, approx. 1/4' in diameter.
It seems to be very similar in construction to modern RG-58 A/U coax (with stranded tinned-copper center conductor approx. #20 AWG), except that the outer jacket is lacquered braided cotton, rather than plastic. Apparently these were originally color-coded via the lacquer on the outside of the braided cotton jackets. This covering is in excellent condition on mine, but colors have faded to various shades of brown. But I can ID them via labels applied to the plug bodies applied by the previous owner. Unfortunately there are no visible markings which would indicate impedance.
Nor do I have proper equipment for measuring their impedance, although I could check resistance and capacitance if it will help you any. The probes as well as the male plugs are all black in color. The plugs are standard 1/4' phone plugs with screw-off shells; however the bodies are somewhat larger than modern phone plugs (approx. 5/8' diameter x 2-1/8' long; a total of 3-3/8' including the plug itself). The probes are standard diameter and measure a total of 3-1/2' long.
From appearance it seems that the body should screw off of these probes, but mine seem to be frozen on and I cannot remove them without running the risk of breakage. I agree with you that there should have been no reason to use shielded cable for the AF and VM probes. Perhaps this was done so that all four would be consistent in appearance?
Russ' idea of making up a panel containing an AC outlet and jacks is a good one. This will improve access to these which are located on the back of the Chanalyst, very inconvenient to reach if the Chanalyst is sitting on a shelf above the workbench. Poston. Russ' idea of making up a panel containing an AC outlet and jacks is a good one.
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This will improve access to these which are located on the back of the Chanalyst, very inconvenient to reach if the Chanalyst is sitting on a shelf above the workbench. Thanks Poston, BTW I was was patting myself on my back for thinking of such an original idea.until I was thumbing through the Chanalyst's manual and found not only instructions on how to wire the extension, but also a drawing showing the wiring. Poston, thanks for your help. Hope you got the photos I sent, I ended up using clear lacquer on the screws instead of zinc plating. Russ A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are.
As mentioned, in order to access the outlet and jacks at the rear of the Chanalyst, I have added a plate and connections to the shelf above the Chanalyst. The jacks and outlet plug into their respective connections so they can be easily removed, and the Chanalyst is unaltered. Not much of a photo, it makes the plate ( and shelf) look skewed, but it is square.really. Now time for testing, adjusting, and using Russ Attachments: Jacks added.JPG 129.38 KiB Viewed 1769 times A place for everything, everything in it's place. I just don't remember where all those places are.
Normal topic.